Review: Two Vancouver-area sandwich shops pay homage to iconic burger joints, Asian menu


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Richmond, BC Chacha’s snack shop in the world offers comfort food with a twist such as, clockwise from above, egg tofu kattu sandy, spicy vegetarian meppo tofu on rice, OG chicken sandy, Taiwanese Edges maize dogs, pom pomelo salad and chicken Skin Chickenron. .

DARRYL DYCK / Globe and Mail

Uncle’s breakfast shop

8180 Westminster Hwy, Richmond, BC

604-270-6188

IG: @unclessnackshop

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Open daily from 11 am to 9 pm

Courtyard, not delivery

Kouign Cafe

18 East Pender St., Vancouver

604-633-8333

thekouign.com

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30 am to 5:30 pm

No courtyard, distribution (ubereats.com)

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The amazing Bunny Burger at Coin Cafe in Chinatown, Vancouver is not really a burger.

It is a Moradella sandwich, served between a black sesame citrus baguette with a cutely booze-purple crumb. It is accompanied by a thick, chunky swipe of melted gouda, kevu mayonnaise, home-made kimchi and wonderfully vibrant mint, Thai basil and lemongrass salsa verde.

Andrew Han made Benny’s Burgers (also with Mortadella) at Benny’s Market in tribute at an iconic Italian dinner on Union Street, where he would take lunch as a child, whenever his mother gave him a dollar. Given to give.

“I loved those sandwiches,” enthuses Mr. Han. “And I remember my childhood, then how free and magical everything felt. I want to share the magic and cook that takes people to the time and place that was happiest. “

Similarly, the corn dog at Uncle’s Snack Shop in Richmond is not exactly the same as that sold at Disneyland.

On the Carnival Classic, this Garky Twist begins with a sweet, charboti Taiwanese sausage, which contains large amounts of fat. It is hand-dipped to order in a standard corn batter that fries coarse and spongy. It is then served with an explosive flavor bomb on the side – with brown sauce, brown sugar, chili and raw garlic.

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“Disneyland is my favorite place in the world,” says chef-Kevin Lynn. “I and Charan [his girlfriend] Whenever we go, a lot of corn kills dogs by eating them. So it was the first dish to hit the menu. I just want to cook food that is fun and playful, but a little closer to home. “

These two new Asian eateries – a Richmond snack shop and a Chinatown cafe – were both born during the epidemic and are steeped in deep apathy.

They offer casual meals that are bold and colorful with unusual twists and large dollops of whiskey.

The memories of the taste they have to awaken will not be known to everyone, but the bittersweet cravings cooked in every captivating bite will come true. After a long year of isolation, loneliness, punch-up wanderings and pandemic frustration, this is exactly the kind of food we all need right now.

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Honey Garlic Crispy Chicken Knees at Uncle’s Snack Shop.

DARRYL DYCK / Globe and Mail

Uncle’s snack shop was originally a Phase 2 project, with three partners, Mr. Lynn, Patrick Do (Do Tea Saigon Vegetarian) and Osik Chow (a screenwriter) set to open and run after their first Vancouver project. Asian Restaurant on Main Street.

Although they expected Saola to open in February, they are still awaiting approval of the city’s permit to begin construction – and paying $ 13,000 in rent. Losing money in a fist, he broke on Uncle and opened up last month.

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The cheerful fast-food outlet, with its bright yellow awning and sky-blue courtyard, is located in a strip mall where the green lemongrass stood. Mr. Doo’s uncle owned a Vietnamese restaurant, where he and Mr. Chow roamed outside every day after high school.

Prior to this, Mr. Lin was a longtime manager and sommelier for the Global Group.

The small menu is a fatty, deep-fried, addictive tasty amalgamation of their collective childhood memories, cooked with overgrown meat and garnished with an eye for Instagram.

Fried Chick Sandys, made with dark drumstick meat, is prepared in a thick, crunchy popcorn-chicken-like coating. Scallion-ginger oil is horribly porous on OG. But the fry bread sandwich is accompanied by its cracked curry leaves and butter salt-egg-yoke coating.

For snacking, there are honey-garlic chicken knees (such as chicken cartilage served in dim cartilage) with crispy chicken skins and taker tots with shaker toppings.

Nearly half of the dishes are vegetarian, with inventive mapo tofu made with impossible ground meat, and an incredibly zynga, wonderfully textured pomelo salad paired with fresh peppermint, spicy watermelon jind and a spicy tamarind dressing.

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Each day, Mr. Lin comes up with a daily feature that reminds of the easy, hastily assembled dinners that his parents used to make them – things like bologni on top of rice and chicken mushrooms with crispy noodles. .

They have struck a nostalgic melody. “Pure Asian-kid, after-school snack genius,” wrote a happy customer.

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Uncle’s Snack Shop has a small menu that is an intoxicatingly delicious blend of the collective childhood memories of the three partners.

DARRYL DYCK / Globe and Mail

Back in Chinatown, the Coin Cafe (pronounced “Kevin”) is named after the Buttery Breton Cake. But here they are baked with white rabbit candies, as are Mr. Han’s famous White Rabbit cookies.

For those who do not know, white rice is the beloved sugar milk candies that are wrapped in edible rice paper.

Like many Asian children, Mr. Han has fond memories of shopping in Chinatown with his mother, where he grew up. On days when he was exceptionally well-behaved – or unbearably queasy – she would buy him a bag of white rabbit candies.

Back then, they were soft and creamy, almost like toffee. Today, candies are tough and brittle. But by baking them in cookies and pastries, which are studded with dark chocolate chips and Maldon sea salt, she is able to restore their cheery texture.

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“Each item on the menu tells a story and describes an important memory from my childhood,” Mr. Han says.

The lunchbox cookie, with peanut flour spiced with Chinese pickled pork, nori and white sesame seeds, is a magical combination of the flavors he used to take to school.

The imaginary tea sandwich is an egg salad marinated in black tea, cinnamon, star anise and dashi broth, in honor of the Vietnamese soy-tea broth her mother used to cook.

Mr. Han, a former government employee who went to culinary school late in life, first launched his cookies and pastries at the Ca Phe Vietnamese coffee bar pop-up in Chinatown. They were a local event that sold like hot cakes.

Their own storefront at the Chinatown Cultural Center opened in August. When the epidemic hit, he tried to get out of his lease. A few months later, when he lost his Instagram account and primary source of marketing, he was genuinely skeptical. His sister convinced him to stay the course.

“People have been waiting for you since the pop-up,” she said. “They are waiting for these cookies and they need more than ever.”

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